How Northern Ireland is redefining its narrative
Thirty years ago, tourism in Northern Ireland was virtually nonexistent. Today, the country's renewed optimism is once again attracting travelers.
On a sunny Saturday evening in Derry, Northern Ireland, Ebrington Square on the northern banks of the River Foyle is lively. Visitors enjoy drinks on the terrace of the newly opened Ebrington Hotel & Spa, a busker draws a crowd outside the Embankment Bar & Grill, and patrons at the Walled City Brewery spill out onto the pavement. While this bustling scene might seem typical, it is noteworthy because of its location.
During the Troubles—the decades-long conflict between Protestant loyalists to the UK and Catholic nationalists seeking reunification with the Republic of Ireland that lasted from the late 1960s until the Good Friday Agreement in 1998—Derry was at the heart of the unrest.
Situated on the border with the Republic of Ireland, Derry experienced attacks and bombings by the Irish Republican Army (IRA) and clashes with the British army, which was deployed to maintain order. Ebrington Square was home to a British army barracks, an imposing fortress overshadowing a divided city.
The Troubles left a significant mark on the nation, and thirty years ago, tourism in Northern Ireland was nearly nonexistent. As the Troubles began to subside after the IRA declared a ceasefire in August 1994, a few adventurous tourists came to see the "sites" they had seen on the news. Belfast's renowned Black Cab Tours illustrate these sites: bombed areas, "peace walls" meant to separate opposing groups, and politically charged murals.
Now, however, peace has become the focal point, with Ebrington Square serving as a visible symbol of this change. Accessible via the S-shaped Peace Bridge, which crosses the river from the old walled city, the once-restricted area is now a popular destination. According to Aeidin McCarter, Derry Council's Investment and Enterprise Development officer, tourism in Derry has doubled over the past decade, with visitors drawn to the city's beautiful setting, rich history, and growing hospitality sector.
"Derry has undergone a transformation over the past 25 years, and last year was our best yet for visitor numbers," McCarter says. "While people remain interested in the history of The Troubles, they come here because it's a vibrant tourist destination, much like any other European city. Peace has driven this change. The food and drink scene is thriving, bombed buildings have been restored and opened to the public, and you can now walk the length of the formerly guarded city walls."
From the top of the 17th-century walls, you can enjoy views in all directions: along the river to the sea, across the city to the surrounding Donegal mountains, and down to the area known as "the Bogside." This predominantly Catholic neighborhood, which emerged after the river silted up, was at the center of the Troubles. It was here on Bloody Sunday (January 30, 1972) that British troops fired on civil rights protesters, killing 13 and injuring 14 others, one of whom later died.
Between 1969 and 1972, part of the Bogside was an autonomous Irish Nationalist area called "Free Derry." The Museum of Free Derry, which opened in 2007 in the Bogside, chronicles the turbulent history of this period. In July 2024, the highly anticipated Peacemakers Museum opened nearby, covering the next chapter in Derry’s story: the escalation of conflict to near civil war and the gradual move toward peace.
"It's divided into sections that cover key periods leading up to the Good Friday Agreement," says project manager Michael Cooper. "As you navigate the museum, you journey from Bloody Sunday to the present day, learning about the roles of local residents and politicians like Martin McGuinness, Mitchel McLaughlin, and John Hume in the peace process."
John Hume, the Irish nationalist politician who dedicated himself to a peaceful resolution, was awarded the Nobel, Gandhi, and Martin Luther King peace prizes for his efforts—making him the only person to receive all three awards. Visitors can view these prestigious honors at the Guildhall Museum in the city center.
